By Johathan Levitt
Around the corner from Hominy Grill, Virginia’s on King, posh and spotless with brick walls and leather booths, is named for Virginia Bennett, the mother of one of the owners, and serves up the cooking of their family table. Okra soup-beef stock, tomatoes, bacon and okra- tastes like something from another time. Frogmore Stew, also known as Beaufort Stew, tidewater boil, or Lowcountry boil, is usually a simmering cauldron of shrimp, corn on the cob, sausage, and red potatoes dumped on newspapers and devoured. Here it makes its way into a handsome bowl but tastes as good as ever. She-crab soup is rich and creamy, a sort of crab bisque but finished with deep pink crab roe and a splash of dry sherry.The tea is sweet and good, and the pineapple upside-down cake is my new favorite dessert.